Autumn does two things to a coat at once. Pets shed the summer coat and grow a denser winter one, and Langley rain arrives to soak it repeatedly. Loose undercoat plus moisture is exactly how mats form. Left alone, mats tighten against the skin and become genuinely painful rather than merely untidy.
Why coats change in September
Coat growth is driven mainly by day length rather than temperature, which is why the change starts before the cold does. As daylight shortens through September, most double-coated dogs and many cats drop the light summer undercoat and start growing the dense winter one.
For a few weeks the two overlap. There is more loose hair sitting in the coat than at any other time of year, and it does not fall out cleanly. It tangles with the growing coat and stays there.
Then it rains. Langley gets steadily wetter from mid-September, and a wet coat that dries without being brushed out is a coat with mats forming in it. Add mud from the fields and trails, and a dog that swims into the autumn, and the process accelerates.
Why matting is a health problem, not a tidiness problem
This is the part owners most often underestimate. A mat is not just a knot. It is a mass of hair that tightens as it dries and contracts against the skin.
- It pulls constantly. A tight mat has the skin under tension every time your pet moves. Owners describe pets becoming grumpy or withdrawn, and it is often this
- It traps moisture against the skin, which is how sore, inflamed patches develop underneath
- It hides things. Lumps, wounds, parasites and inflamed skin all go unnoticed under a matted coat until they are advanced
- It restricts movement when mats form in the armpits, between the back legs or across the chest
- It stops the coat working. A matted coat insulates badly, which matters going into winter
- Severe matting can restrict circulation, particularly around ears, tails and toes
The skin under a mat is frequently red, thin and sore, which is why heavily matted pets often need sedation to be shaved safely. That is not the groomer being cautious; it is that the procedure is uncomfortable and the skin is fragile.
Which pets are most at risk
- Doodles and poodle crosses. The highest-risk group by a distance. A coat that does not shed still grows, and it mats readily
- Double-coated breeds such as retrievers, shepherds, huskies and collies, especially through the autumn drop
- Long-haired cats, particularly Persians, Maine Coons and their crosses
- Any older or overweight pet. This is the one owners miss. A pet that cannot reach its own back end stops grooming there, and mats appear over the hips, the base of the tail and the back legs
- Pets with sore joints, for the same reason, which our guide on why regular grooming matters touches on from the cat side
- Dogs who swim or work in wet fields through the autumn
- Pets wearing harnesses or coats, which cause friction mats under the straps
A cat that stops grooming is telling you something
This deserves its own section because it is so often read as laziness.
Cats are meticulous groomers. A cat whose coat has become greasy, clumped or matted, especially over the back and hips, has usually stopped grooming for a reason. The common reasons are dental discomfort making grooming painful, joint discomfort making it hard to reach, obesity making it physically impossible, or a general illness taking the energy out of them.
A newly scruffy cat is a reason to book an examination, not a reason to buy a better brush. The same applies to a cat that suddenly over-grooms one area bare, which points the other way, usually to skin irritation or discomfort underneath.
What to do at home, this month
- Brush more often than feels necessary, through the autumn drop. Little and often beats a long session once a week
- Brush right down to the skin, not just across the top. Most mats form in the undercoat while the surface still looks fine
- Check the hidden places where mats start: behind and under the ears, in the armpits, between the back legs, under a collar or harness, around the base of the tail, and between the toes
- Always dry after a wet walk or a swim. This single habit prevents most autumn matting. Towel first, then brush once dry rather than while soaking
- Never bathe a matted pet. Water tightens mats dramatically. Get the mats out first, or have them dealt with professionally
- Use the right tool. A slicker plus a metal comb for most coats. If a comb will not pass through to the skin, that is a mat, whatever it looks like from above
- Make it pleasant. Short sessions, food, stopping before your pet has had enough. A pet that dreads brushing becomes a pet that cannot be brushed
Do not cut mats out with scissors
This is the most common way owners injure a pet at home. A mat sits tight against the skin, and skin lifts into it, so scissors go through both. These wounds are frequently deep, and we see them regularly. If a mat will not brush out, leave it and get it clipped properly with clippers by someone who can see what is underneath.
When it needs the clinic rather than a brush
Book an appointment if you find any of the following:
- Mats you cannot get a comb under, or that have formed a solid plate against the skin
- Skin that is red, damp, smelly or sore where a mat has been
- A pet that flinches, growls or snaps when a particular area is touched
- A cat that has stopped grooming, or started over-grooming one spot
- Hair loss that is not seasonal shedding, or bald patches
- Scabs, scale, dandruff or a coat that has changed texture
- Any lump found while brushing
Our medical grooming service exists for exactly the pets that fall between a regular groomer and a clinic visit, including heavily matted, elderly, anxious or sore animals that need the coat sorted out safely. Where the coat problem is a sign of something else, our medical services team investigates the cause rather than only clearing the mats.
Frequently asked questions
My doodle gets groomed every eight weeks. Why is he still matting?
Because a doodle coat generally needs brushing at home between appointments, often several times a week, and more than that during the autumn coat change. Eight weeks is a long time for a non-shedding coat in wet weather. Ask your groomer to show you exactly where his coat mats first, and check those spots twice a week.
Should I shave my dog for the winter to avoid mats?
Not usually, and not for double-coated breeds, where shaving can permanently change how the coat regrows and removes the insulation your dog needs. Shaving is the right answer for a coat that is already badly matted, because getting mats out of a severely affected coat is more painful than clipping it off. Prevention is the better plan.
Is matting actually painful, or is that an exaggeration?
It is genuinely painful. A tight mat keeps the skin under constant tension and pulls with every movement. Owners very often report that a pet becomes noticeably happier and more active after a bad coat is dealt with, which tells you how it felt beforehand.
My cat has never needed brushing. Why now?
Two possibilities. The autumn coat change produces more loose hair than a cat can manage alone, particularly in long-haired cats. Or your cat has stopped grooming as thoroughly because something makes it uncomfortable, which is worth having looked at. If the change is recent and your cat is over about seven, lean toward the second.
How often should I brush during the coat change?
Short-coated dogs, once or twice a week. Double-coated breeds, several times a week through the drop. Doodles and long-haired cats, most days. The test is not the calendar, it is whether a metal comb passes cleanly to the skin everywhere.
Can I use a de-shedding tool on any coat?
They suit double-coated dogs during the drop and are excellent there, used gently. They are not right for single-coated or curly coats, and overusing one damages the coat and irritates the skin. If you are unsure what coat type you have, ask us or your groomer.
Speak to the team at Langley Meadows Animal Hospital
If your pet has mats you cannot get out, or a coat that has changed, book before the wet months set in. Call us on (236) 706-0019.
Published by the team at Langley Meadows Animal Hospital.
This article is for general educational purposes only and is not a substitute for an in-person veterinary examination or advice about your individual pet. If you have an urgent concern about your pet, contact Langley Meadows Animal Hospital or your nearest emergency veterinary hospital right away.
Langley Meadows Animal Hospital
6233 200 St #7, Langley, BC V2Y 1A2
Phone: (236) 706-0019
Hours: Monday to Friday 8:00 AM to 10:00 PM; Saturday 9:00 AM to 10:00 PM; Sunday 10:00 AM to 10:00 PM; statutory holidays 8:00 AM to 10:00 PM